The #411 on Skincare Ingredients
The skincare aisles are full of technical terms, jargon and obscure ingredients with each one claiming to be the one that will address your specific skincare concerns. Some recent conversations have left me with an understanding that a lot of people are lost, and aren’t quite sure what each ingredient does and if it would be right for them. In light of this confusion and accompanied by my natural curiosity, I decided to compile a little cheat sheet on the skincare ingredients you’re likely to see and what it is exactly that they do. Hope this helps in some way and let’s get right to it!
Hyaluronic Acid
The cells in our skin naturally produce hyaluronic acid (HA) to assist in maintaining moisture levels. Aging, the environment, and our diets can cause these levels to decline, increasing the need for topical HA application. Hyaluronic acid is an amazing product for alleviating skin dryness and dehydration. It is a humectant – a type of substance which is used to reduce moisture loss. Dry skin is caused by a lack of natural oils and it presents as itching, roughness and flaking. Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, is low on water causing it to be dull in appearance, uneven and with more noticeable fine lines. If your skin is chronically dehydrated or dry, I would recommend you see a dermatologist because there's only so much the words of a random girl with a blog can do. HA acts as a moisture magnet, helping the cells to retain as much water as possible so that the skin feels and appears hydrated, plump and healthy. It works on every skin type and can be layered effectively with all the other products in your skincare cabinet.
Product recommendations: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster, Glossier Super Bounce
Ideal for: dry skin, dehydrated skin, basically all skin types – including us oily peeps
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Alpha hydroxy acids are plant and animal-derived acids with incredible exfoliant properties. Exfoliation is the process where the skin cells on the surface shed off which promotes the generation of newer skin cells. Unlike physical exfoliants e.g. spin brushes, scrubs – chemical exfoliants can achieve the same results without a lot of the physical agitation. AHAs can penetrate deeper and unclog pores therefore thoroughly cleansing the face and helping prevent acne breakouts better than physical exfoliants could. The benefits of glycolic acid are abundant; it promotes collagen production, improves blood circulation, can correct discolouration, improves the appearance of surface lines, brightens the complexion and improves product absorption. Glycolic acid can be incorporated into toners, moisturisers and cleansers in weaker concentrations, or peels and masks at higher concentrations. It can be a little harsh at high concentrations so stick with the toners, pads and cleansers for regular use. Something I wish someone had told me is check the ingredients list and try to avoid products containing tea tree oil. When incorporating it into your routine, start slowly with application every other day before slowly increasing to once or twice daily application. Temporary side effects include burning, itching, blisters and dermatitis – if they are unbearable or last a long time seek the advice of someone who knows what they're talking about. The peeling effects of AHAs make the skin more sensitive to UV rays so make sure to apply SPF every day.
Product recommendations: Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, Malin + Goetz Resurfacing Glycolic Pads, Andalou Naturals Brightening Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask
Ideal for: dull skin, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne-prone skin
When to avoid: freshly shaven skin, cuts or burns, rosacea, psoriasis, pregnancy and breastfeeding (see your doctor)
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), the only commercially available BHA. BHAs like AHAs are chemical exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells. Salicylic acid is just as effective as the AHAs at clearing blackheads and whiteheads by unclogging pores. It is oil soluble which helps it better penetrate the pores to remove dead skin cells and oil in hair follicles, hence it's incorporation in so many acne targetting skincare products. BHAs are much less irritating than AHAs, which is preferable for people with more sensitive or sensitised skin (more on that in a later post). Salicylic acid is keratolytic, meaning it causes softening and sloughing of the skin’s top layer. To get the best of both worlds *hannah montana style* you can try using a daily BHA toner then a once-weekly AHA containing mask or vice versa. Too much of these good things will be a bad thing, overuse can increase the skin's sensitivity and cause irritation which might worsen the problems you're trying to treat. Like glycolic acid, it can increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays so slip, slop, slap. For those with body acne or dandruff, salicylic acid is a great product to use because it’s available in a much wider range of formulations. With this, be careful not to apply to very large portions of skin as salicylate poisoning can occur, apply the products only onto acne-prone areas.
Product recommendations: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, Paula’s Choice Clear Acne Body Spray with 2% Salicylic Acid
Ideal for: acne prone skin, oily skin, blackheads and whiteheads, dandruff, psoriasis [on the advice of a health professional]
Avoid if: lots of adverse effects (dryness, peeling, redness, irritation), pregnancy, anticoagulant medications
Vitamin C
Not just great for boosting your immune system during flu season, vitamin c [a.k.a. ascorbic acid] is an amazing skincare ingredient. It’s great for fine lines, acne scars, general dullness, rough texture – basically, 99.9% of the skin concerns you can think of. To put my pharmacy hat on for a moment, vitamin c is a potent antioxidant that can neutralise free radicals. That means that it can help the skin's natural regeneration process and repair damaged skin cells. The free radical neutralisation is protective, helping to reduce the damage caused by environmental aggressors like UV rays. Vitamin C’s effect on fine lines and wrinkles is because its acidic nature forces the skin to produce lots of collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are naturally occurring proteins that keep skin plump, firm and glowy. For my melanated friends with hyperpigmentation, vitamin c can reduce the severity of acne scars and hyperpigmentation and when used with SPF, it can help prevent dark spots from forming in the first place. Vitamin C degrades in sunlight so store away from windows and make sure packaging is dark or opaque. If you have sensitive skin, it might sting a little when applied so start by applying 3 times a week then work your way up to using it more regularly. Depending on the formulation, it may help to mix your vitamin c serum into a moisturiser or another serum for the first few weeks of use.
Product recommendations: Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Brightening Serum, Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil, Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Brightening and Smoothing Moisture Treatment, The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
Ideal for: hyperpigmentation, acne scars, dullness, skin texture
Avoid if: allergies, sensitive skin, mixing with AHAs or benzoyl peroxide
Retinol/ Retinoids
Retinol and retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives that get converted into retinoic acid. Retinoid is an umbrella term used for over-the-counter retinol and prescription retinoids like isotretinoin (or Roaccutane as it’s known by anyone who’s had the pleasure of being prescribed it). Vitamin a is a dermatologist favourite because it can treat acne, fade dark spots, brighten dull skill and prevent wrinkles like no other. This ingredient causes skin cells to turn over and die, allowing the skin to boost collagen production which keeps pores clear and ensures the skin is constantly refreshed. Retinols work more gradually than retinoids meaning that it will take longer to achieve the same results but they have less severe side effects. Vitamin A containing skincare is notorious for causing dryness, irritation, redness, sun sensitivity and flaking especially on initiation. Therefore, lather up and if you're not yet convinced, get you some SPF. If you’re going to start using retinol, start by applying every third night then slowly increase to every other night over a month. If your skin is tolerating it well, you can transition to applying once a night.
Product Recommendations: The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane, Biossance Squalane + Photo-Retinol Serum, Verso Super Facial Serum, REN Bio-Retinol Cream Moisturiser
Ideal for: acne prone skin, signs of aging (not that there’s anything wrong with those),
Avoid if: pregnant or breastfeeding, hypersensitive skin, mixing with AHAs
Niacinamide
Maybe my favourite skincare ingredient, niacinamide works with the natural substances in the skin to minimise the appearance of pores, improve uneven skin tone, diminish dullness and reduce oil overproduction. Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide also helps reduce the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve the skin’s protective barrier and it can boost the skin’s ability to produce ceramides. Ceramides are both moisturising and strengthening, and even though they are endogenously produced by the skin, you can add some ceramide containing skincare products to your skincare fridge. When ceramides become depleted over time, the skin is left vulnerable to dryness, flaking and becoming increasingly sensitised. This ingredient is gentler than most so you can jump straight to twice-daily use. The reason I’m such a big fan of niacinamide is that it can reduce inflammation in moderate acne, help limit the overproduction of sebum (hallelujah) and it has a positive effect on hyperpigmentation.
Product Recommendations: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% and Zinc 1%, The Inkey List Niacinamide, Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster
Ideal for: literally everyone, mixing with all your other skincare favourites, sensitive skin
Avoid if: evidence of niacinamide sensitivity e.g. redness, irritation
SPF
I’m gonna start by bursting your bubble. Using an SPF-containing moisturiser or foundation doesn’t provide the same level of protection as using a sole sunscreen product. This is because to get the level of protection that's on the product label you would have to apply much more product than you're going to. My first piece of advice is to apply sunscreen as the last step of your skincare routine, every morning, no matter the season or level of cloud coverage. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures the level of UVB protection a sunscreen will give you. Broad-spectrum sunscreens also protect you against UVA rays. SPF indicates the length of time that your skin will be protected from sunburn depending on your skin type. For example, if you normally burn after 5 minutes in the sun, an SPF 50 sunscreen would protect you for 50 x 5 minutes before you begin to burn. Regardless of this, it’s recommended that you reapply your sunscreen every 2 to 4 hours, even over makeup. My second piece of advice would be to get a sunscreen mist for easier reapplying during the day. For more information on this, check out 4 Ways to Reapply Sunscreen Over Makeup on Mixed Makeup’s YT channel.
Product Recommendations: Supergoop Defense Refresh (Re)Setting Mist, Coola Makeup Setting Spray Sunscreen, Cancer Concil Face & Body Moisturiser SPF 50+, Neutrogena HydroBoost Water Gel Lotion, La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Cream SPF 50+
Ideal for: everyone.
No matter what you choose to add to your skincare regimen, do your research, check the ingredients list of what you're buying and watch for any side effects. A lot of curating a skincare regimen is about trying lots of things and finding out what your skin reacts best to so proceed patiently. Start with a cleanser, add some toner then add your serums. If you’re using multiple serums, make sure the active ingredients are compatible and apply the thinnest products first. Always apply your moisturiser and/or face oil last at night, and just before your sunscreen during the day. Don’t forget to apply everything to your neck and chest so you can get all those great skincare benefits there, too. If you're like me and love a bit of extra reading, see below. See you soon lovely xx
Homework:
cover image: <a href='https://www.freepik.com/photos/spa'>Spa photo created by freepik - www.freepik.com</a>
Elle UK | What is Hyaluronic Acid and How Does it Work?
Elle Australia | Everything You Need to Know About Glycolic Acid
Healthline | Everything You Need to Know About Using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Allure | Here's Exactly What Salicylic Acid Does to Your Skin
Allure | Everything You Need to Know About Vitamin C, the Holy Grail of Skin-Care Ingredients
SELF | 9 Things You Need to Know Before Using Vitamin C for Your Skin
Elle Australia | Retinol: Here's Why Now Is The Perfect Time To Try It
Byrdie | Retinol vs. Retinoids: When to Use Each and Why
Paula’s Choice | Vitamin A Skin Care Products: How to Choose and Use Them
Paula’s Choice | How Niacinamide Helps Skin
Elle UK | What Is Niacinamide, And Is It Really Worth The Hype?
